August 28, 2017
72 Hours in Northern Ireland
Lindsay B. Davis READ TIME: 8 MIN.
Mind blowing nature. Cosmopolitan cities with a balance of Old and New World charm. Considering what a stunning, enchanting and inspiring place it is to visit, Northern Ireland remains one of Europe's best-kept secrets for a holiday. You could easily spend a week or more taking it all in, but if you only have 72 hours, here is your shortlist of places to see:
DAY ONE
Six Irish counties make up Northern Ireland and County Antrim to the northeast is home to miles of extremely well-preserved coastlines and pastures, a bucolic backdrop to a trifecta of natural wonders. Giant's Causeway is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and offers walking trails through 60 million-year-old volcanic rock formations with astounding levels of symmetry and design. The "Giant" refers to Irish legend's supersized Finn McCool (known to be friendly yet hot-headed), whose effort to engage a rival giant across the sea in Scotland resulted in the formation of the Causeway's 40,000 basalt columns.
For adventure travelers seeking an adrenaline rush, Carrick-a-Rede Bridge is a narrow, approximately 70-foot-long rope bridge that hovers nearly 100 feet above stunning, turquoise water. Cross it to Carrickarede Island, once a salmon fishery and now the spot where you will take your proudest selfie. (Just wait until you are OFF the bridge!)
Your third stop in County Antrim is The Gobbins Cliff Walk, built in 1902 by Irish railway engineer Berkeley Deane Wise, who wisely wanted to encourage tourism to the north coast. Deemed the "the most dramatic walk in Europe" it induces adrenaline, especially if the Irish weather is typically temperamental. On the rainy, chilly day I traversed its slippery rocks and steep stairs, invigorating, cool water splashed my face and hardhat with the intensity of the gods waking me up from a nap. The Gobbins Cliff Walk is by guided tour only, and their knowledgeable leaders leave no stone unturned.
After such a long and physical day, you'll want to rest your head at Ballygally Castle Hotel for chic rooms, water views and the Garden Restaurant serving local Glenarm Salmon. After a great night's rest, you will want to try the traditional Irish breakfast or porridge with Bushmills whiskey.
If sensitive to the paranormal, however, be prepared, for Ballygally is the rumored stomping ground of a friendly, female ghost! I happily summoned her (to no avail) but you can also consider a stay at the delightful Bushmills Inn instead.
Country Antrim is also known as "Game of Thrones" territory, so if you're a fan of the show (or even if you are not) look into the guided tours that will take you to places like the Dark Hedges in Armoy and Glenariff.
DAY TWO
Journey west of County Antrim to County Derry/Londonderry and visit one of the oldest walled cities in Europe (and only one of its kind on the entire Emerald Isle). The best way to get all the history in is by guided tour, and Garson with Martin McCrossan City Walking Tours is delightful. Derry's walls (made of cement and horse hair) are more than 400 years old with canons, churches and cemeteries dotting the perimeter. Pass through the sites of major battles dating back to the Renaissance (history buffs will recall The Great Siege and Battle of Boyne) and even more recent tensions, including the notorious Bloody Sunday, which happened at a Derry bog in 1972 and is recalled by an Obelisk Memorial.
Today's Derry is lovely and so charming, you will want to lose yourself in the delightful shops of Craft Village then stroll along the River Foyle until ready for a cappuccino and pastry at Primrose Caf� on the Quay. A cultural nod from the UK in 2013 gave Derry the title of "City of Culture" which lead to festivals and celebrations such as Music City, a good thing considering Derry is home to bands like punk rockers The Undertones and famed songwriter Phil Coulter.
A Peace Bridge constructed only six years ago connects two parts of the city that were once at odds, and you will find an abundance of well-cared for flower beds, a touch that makes Derry feel like an inviting home awaiting visitors. As my tour guide said with deep pride and an almost visible lump in his throat, "It's risen from the ashes and you can't leave unaffected."
Stay the night at Bishops Gate Hotel where you'll discover regal pet portraits hanging in the lobby and stairwell. As far as hotels go, it is the crown jewel of Derry gaining a stellar reputation as one of the best stays in the UK and Ireland.
DAY THREE
Rise early for the one hour drive east to the Derry village of Bellaghy. Your destination: a museum dedicated to the life and letters of homegrown poet, playwright and Nobel Laureate, Seamus Heaney. Even if you are unfamiliar with his work, the space (which opened in September 2016) is so inviting that you'll feel not only the essence of a writer but also the region's inspiration.
Read excerpts of Heaney's poetry alongside poignant photographs of his subjects, often close family and friends, then enjoy audio recordings his own recitations and video components such as poetry readings by those who loved his work (Bono reading "A Kite for Aibhin" was my favorite) and Heaney's moving 1995 Nobel Prize for Literature acceptance speech. The museum is truly worthy of its name --
From Bellaghy, an approximately 45-minute ride will bring you to Northern Ireland's capital and largest city, Belfast, which has been climbing steadily, stoically and optimistically in the direction of peace since the late '90s. I immediately fell in love with this small city with big city dreams, which is coming to terms with its past and embracing a confluence of Irish and British cultural influences.
Join Taste and Tour to eat and drink your way through a city that has no shortage of suitable pubs and venues for the best in Irish whiskey and gin. Highlights include The Friend at Hand shop which sells only Irish whiskey, and historic pubs like The Garrick and Duke of York in the Half Bap area now known as Cathedral Quarter -- a must-see for its spirit, colorful murals, and backstory of inspiring economic recovery.
You'll also want to seek out trendier, recent additions to Belfast including Bullitt, where I tasted local Jawbox Gin with ginger ale and lime, a true "gin and ginger," and the stunning Merchant Hotel for a most memorable Irish coffee made with Tullamore Dew whiskey, molasses and a wee bit of nutmeg on top.
While it's not the conversation with which most locals want to lead, it is inevitable to wonder how the city is doing now that the once warring factions (those loyal to either The United Kingdom or The Republic of Ireland) have settled into a new era of peace. In part to answer this question, my tour guide drove us through pockets of the city where allegiance to certain flags can still be seen. What has changed, however, is the appearance of artistic murals, memorials and street art in these once off-limits neighborhoods, plus the renaming of barriers to "Peace Walls" where I was invited to handwrite messages along hundreds of feet of inspired words and images.
Belfast lost more than 3,000 people during the era known as "The Troubles" and similar to my home city of New York, which experienced its own terror and mass casualty event, the recovery has spawned new life, resilience and an appreciation for all the city has to offer. Belfast is a small miracle in the making, coming into its own and offering top-line culinary experiences, hotels, theater, and music (Snow Patrol is still a hometown favorite). The people genuinely want to share the good with you, and unlike some places in Europe, there is little to no tourist fatigue. Take advantage of their open invitation; you will be so glad you did.
LGBT Intel
Belfast is also home to Northern Ireland's largest LGBT population and recently held a full week of Belfast Pride events including The Belfast Pride Awards. Love Equality NI, the campaign for equal civil marriage in Northern Ireland, took home awards for Best Community Partnership and Best Community Actions.
Further highlights included a visit from The Republic of Ireland's openly gay Prime Minister, Leo Varadkar, who publicly announced his belief that it is only a matter of time before gay marriage is legalized in Northern Ireland, too. This year's Pride ran from July 28 through August 6, with over 150 events, Belfast's biggest ever.
For more information on LGBT Ireland click here.
Getting There
Norwegian Air offers low-cost flights to Belfast and many other destinations throughout Europe and beyond. In early July, the airline launched its first direct flight to Belfast from Providence, Rhode Island. For more information visit norwegian.com.