Diving Deep Into Northern Ireland's Seafood

Northern Ireland's breathtaking coastal walks like Giant's Causeway and the Gobbins Cliff Path take you high above the crashing Irish Sea, providing a feast for the eyes, ears and soul. But what lies beneath the water's surface will stimulate your palate.

Northern Irish seafood, once largely exported and considered by locals an inferior choice to meat, has experienced a recent a surge in popularity (no longer playing second fiddle to Irish stew and potatoes) and is reason enough to head to Belfast and surrounding areas to experience the bounty of the sea.

Mourne Seafood Bar

At Mourne Seafood Bar in Belfast, which opened in 2006 following the success of his debut restaurant outside of Dublin, founder/owner and former oyster farmer Bob McCoubrey is riding the new wave of seafood interest, one he also helped create.

Fresh oysters from the medieval town of Carlingford are a must, along with sweet Strangford Lough mussels and other delicacies including silver hake and langoustines so tender they nearly fall out of the shell once cracked. There are also the robust crab legs and impeccable smoked mackerel, for starters.

The atmosphere is congenial and modest prices keep the vibe low-key at Mourne Seafood Bar, making it a destination sought out by locals and tourists alike. For aspiring chefs or foodies who love to feast on great cookbook photos, pick up your copy of "Mourne Seafood Bar: The Cookbook."

St. George's Market

When ready to take matters into your own hands, head over to St. George's Market, also in Belfast, to purchase and carry out your own catch of the day.

Founded in 1890 and refurbished in the late 1990s, the space's current incarnation has over 23 fish stalls and is known as the leading retail fish market in Ireland.

Whole fishes on display at St. George's include salmon, red snapper, and mackerel (labeled unpretentiously by Post-it notes). Most are available Friday through Sunday.

Complement your meal with bread from one of the award-winning bakeries inside, including Ann's Pantry, whose potato and soda varieties (classic or more creative variations using spelt) earned them the 2016 BBC Award for Northern Ireland's Best Bakery.

Hooray for Holywood! And Beyond...

At the restaurant Noble, a small, chic and friendly spot in the town of Holywood, County Down, Saul McConnell greets everyone with a dynamic smile while chef Pearson Morris follows with an outstanding dining experience.

On a recent visit, Port of Foyle langoustines from nearby Portavogie (a small fishing harbor and village on the east coast) were the special of the day, roasted to simple perfection with mild garlic butter. The tempura whitebait served with aioli were also divine and deceptively light for a fried indulgence. When the sun sets and fills the room with a soft, warm glow, it's easy to see why the restaurant captures the region's sense of hope and romance.

To discover the essence of a place, one turns not only to its food but the folklore. Nobel Prize-winning Northern Irish poet, the late Seamus Heaney mentioned salmon in his poem, "Man and Boy," while the Salmon of Wisdom is a creature in the Fenian Cycle of Irish mythology capable of endowing the first human who eats it with all the knowledge of the world.

Cut to the present where Glenarm Organic Salmon, a regional leader in organic salmon production, uses its own wise, best-practices for sustainable aquaculture. Glenarm is the only Atlantic salmon farmer in the Irish Sea, now exporting 600 tons a year to over 15 countries.

I enjoyed my first meal in Northern Ireland at neighboring Glenarm Castle's Walled Garden Tea Room following a tour of the astonishing castle itself. The Glenarm Salmon was smoked to perfection and wedged between two slices of wheaten bread. Simple yet (if one believes the tale) magical.

French Influences, Seaweed & More

Another standout spot for unforgettable smoked salmon is The French Rooms in Bushmills, a town in County Antrim nestled near the stunning coastline, and home to the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in Ireland. The oak-smoked Donegal salmon with creme fraiche, lemon zest and caper berries nearly dance off the plate with color and flavor. The Gourmet Grocer Platter combines Irish and French influences with chicken liver and fig pate, "love olive" exotic mix from Glenavy and a baguette accompanied by Ballyrashane Irish butter.

Dulse may look like the Spanish word "dulce" for sweet, but with an "s" it's a rather salty delicacy. Dried seaweed is now known as a healthy "super food" but before this revelation it was a hangover cure, and Northern Ireland's County Antrim coast boasts some of the best in the world. As our effusive tour guide mentioned, "There are places to have Dulse and places not to have it!"

For the former, we were lead to Sawers, a 120-year-old deli with old-world charm and enough selections to satisfy the modern shopper. In addition to the dulse, you'll find hundreds of varieties of local produce, cheeses (including standouts Young Buck blue and tangy Irish Bally brie), cured meats, specialty jams, poultry and of course, fresh seafood.

Getting There
Norwegian Air offers low-cost flights to Belfast and many other destinations throughout Europe and beyond. In early July, the airline launched its first direct flight to Belfast from Providence, Rhode Island. For more information visit www.norwegian.com.