September 3, 2014
Spain by Land and Sea
Matthew Wexler READ TIME: 7 MIN.
It felt as though the moment I returned from Spain, someone was asking, "Which did you like better -- Barcelona or Madrid?" It's a terribly unfair question, and one that I typically refuse to answer. Why does one place ever have to be better than somewhere else?
That being said, Barcelona (the capital of Catalonia) captures the seaside air and offers architectural and artistic wonders like Basilica of La Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell, home to the fantastical works of Antoni Gaudí.
Madrid, meanwhile, sits at the epicenter of the Iberian Peninsula and dangles its own gastronomic adventures and cultural sights, such as the Prado Museum and some serious shopping. I suggest planning a Spanish adventure that includes both destinations, and for easy access, here are top picks for a memorable getaway-siesta not included.
CULTURE
Madrid
Cosmopolitan and cultural, Madrid offers classic architecture, world-renowned art collections and plenty of places to spend your euros. Two must-sees for art buffs include the Prado Museum, featuring more than 2,300 paintings that have been incorporated into the collection since its opening. Upcoming exhibits include the first Spanish exhibit of 17th century artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini as well as Goya's tapestry cartoons that coincide with the remodeling of the museum's second floor (south wing).
The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía offers an eclectic permanent collection as well as notable current and upcoming exhibits that include Kerry James Marshall: Painting and Other Stuff and works by Mathias Goeritz after the artist settled in Mexico City in 1949.
Fashion-forward travelers should head to the Salamanca district for luxury boutiques along Calle de Serrano, while those still stumbling the streets of Chueca after a night of bar hopping can check out the avant-garde offerings at //www.mdf.esFuencarral Market.
Barcelona
By Picasso's own request, his personal secretary, Jaume Sabartés, proposed the creation of a museum dedicated to the artist's work. The museum opened in 1963 and is now home to some of his most personal works. In addition, temporary exhibitions highlight complementary artists and themes. Arriving this fall through January 2015 is a photograph exhibit donated by Picasso's longtime friend David Douglas Duncan II.
For film fans, the city presents the
And, of course, a trip to Barcelona is not complete without a tour of the seven properties built by Antoni Gaudí, which have been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
STAY
Madrid
ME Madrid Reina Victoria
If you're looking to see and be seen as well as have easy access to the nearby gay-friendly Chueca district, set up digs at ME. Located on historic Plaza de Santa Ana, the property dates back to 1923 and was recently renovated under the creative eye of architect Keith Hobbs and his team at United Designers, which includes custom-made furniture and eclectic accessories. Head to the roof for spectacular city views, which include gorgeous Spaniards as well as the skyline.
Barcelona
Axel Hotel
Get your gay on at the 105-room "straight friendly" hotel that offers stellar city views, a pulsating rooftop club scene and, if budget allows, four luxurious suites with private terraces from which you can toss knowing glances to the sultry locals who have waited all night to gain access to the packed weekly parties with such themes as "The Bellboy: Please Disturb."
GASTRONOMY
Madrid
Madrid Food Tour
Founded by Lauren Aloise in 2012, Madrid Food Tours offers the ultimate on-the-ground experience of Madrid's food culture and gastronomic history. While several tapas and cuisine tours are offered, secure a coveted spot on the Huertas Neighborhood Food & Market Tour for an insider's look at how the locals shop and eat. Stops include Fabrica de Churros y Patatas Fritas (a tiny wholesale factory dating back to the 1930s) and Mercado de Antón Martín (a two-floor market filled with foodie treasures and frequented by locals), where you'll get to sample Serrano and Ibérico ham.
Barcelona
Espai Boisà
For a hands-on Catalan cooking experience, spend the afternoon with the husband-and-wife team of Pep Soler and Claudia Schmilinsky, co-founders of Espai Boisà, Barcelona's first cooking school and restaurant. The former second-hand furniture store has been converted into a boutique teaching kitchen that embraces the Slow Food movement by utilizing local and sustainable ingredients. The seasonal menu may include local favorites such as codfish with tomatoes, raisins and pine nuts; ham croquettes; seafood paella; and a classic Catalan cream, a crème brûlée-style dessert spiked with notes of cinnamon and citrus.
Next page for day trip suggestions and getting there.
DAY TRIP
Barcelona to Sitges
Only 35 kilometers southwest of Barcelona, Sitges offers a sexy (as if Barceolna isn't sexy enough) respite from the bustle of the big city. Indulge in 26 beaches (mark your map for the gay-friendly Platja de la Bassa Rodona, three marinas and 29 gay bars. Looking to spend the night? The luxurious Meliá Sitges offers seaview rooms, a magnificent outdoor pool set against the backdrop of lush gardens and terraces, and spa facilities including a sauna and Turkish bath. Mark your 2015 calendar for Sitges's annual Gay Pride June 18 to June 22.
Madrid to Alcalá
Dream the impossible dream. Head northeast from Madrid to this charming town, home of the world's first university city and birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote. For soaring views and literary inspiration, be sure to dine at La Terraza del Mercado, where you can enjoy a 35-euro prix fixe seasonal menu.
GETTING THERE
Whether you've chosen Madrid or Barcelona as your final destination, start your trip in true Spanish fashion on Iberia Airlines. While most of Spain seems to move at a relaxing pace that only escalates around 1 a.m., FlightStats ranked Iberia number one earlier this summer as the most punctual airline in the world among international companies.
If budget (or indulgence) allows, consider flying business class to enjoy the newly expanded VIP Lounge at Madrid-Barajas Airport. Onboard dining service may include such delicacies as smoked duck salad, mahi mahi with coriander and lime and, of course, a curated selection of Spanish wines and spirits like the spicy 2010 Condado de Haza Rioja or a glass of Moscatel from Málaga.
Matthew Wexler is EDGE's Senior Editor, Features & Branded Content. More of his writing can be found at www.wexlerwrites.com. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @wexlerwrites.